Hey family and friends,
Sorry I’ve gotten so behind on my blog – we’ve been hopping through countries so quickly I’ve barely had any time to sit down to check my email, much less write a blog.
We’re en route to Hong Kong right now, having just left Vietnam, but this entry is going to be about Malaysia.
I’d like to preface by saying that I wasn’t especially excited about Malaysia – I wasn’t unexcited but with the excitement of countries like South Africa and India, I put Malaysia on the back-burner. Ironically, it ended up being one of my favorites. I had no idea what to expect – I hadn’t really given it much thought – but I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty and urbanization of Malaysia.
We docked in Penang and I went out with the group of friends I was planning on traveling to Kuala Lumpur with. Our original plan was to find a hotel for the night since our flight was very early the next morning and we didn’t want to deal with the tender boats that brought us in because they tended to get delayed. Instead, we found a cab driver who offered to drive us all around Penang and take us to a few sites very inexpensively. I think it ended up being about $3 USD each (for a group of 4) for the whole day.
A word about Penang – it has an enormous Chinese population and the Chinese influence is very evident as you walk around.
So, our cab driver took us to factory where they make beautiful designs on cloth using wax and a special dye. They hand-draw intricate designs on the cloth using a tool that holds the wax, and then they dip the cloth in the dye. To remove the wax, they wash the cloth in boiling hot water. Some of the dresses were very pretty, but a little too expensive for our tastes, so we moved on to a museum.
The museum was a huge Chinese mansion built in the early 1900s. The rooms were very ornately decorated and beautiful and I got a lot of pictures of rooms called “The Bridal Chamber” or “The Parlor.” It was pretty interesting to see life for the wealthy back in the day.
We were feeling a little peckish so our driver bought us some roadside snacks called Pao – a Chinese pastry which is sort of like a puff of soft bread with some coconut jam in the middle. Mmm.
Then we stopped at the railroad station to get tickets for my friends who opted to take the train to KL instead of fly (both options were about the same price). After that, our driver took us to a Buddhist temple that contained an enormous bronze statue of a reclining Buddha. His toes were about the size of my head. We lit a candle and tried to meditate on the pillows they had laid out, but I think we probably looked a little silly. Oh well.
Moving on. We said we were hungry so our cab driver took us to a little food court where a bunch of little shops had been set up. Everyone was selling traditional Malaysian street food and everything was in Malay or Chinese, but with a little help from our cab driver, everyone ordered food they were happy with. I got some type of curry that I think contained octopus (or something with tentacles) and tofu, and it was absolutely delicious. I took a picture and I’ll post it as soon as I have reliable internet. Each meal had more than enough food and cost about $1 USD a plate. We all had ice cream for dessert, too.
Our cabbie then took us to a cheap but clean hotel called Hong Ping which was about $35 USD a night for all of us. We set our stuff down and then decided to walk around a little.
We found a cute hole-in-the-wall bar called the Hong Kong Bar and played Connect Four and Jenga and talked to a Swedish guy who worked in Cambodia but was vacationing in Malaysia. It was a good way to unwind and chat after a long day of rushing around the city.
After that, we walked around, looking in shops and trying to find a good place to eat. The restaurant we ended up at wasn’t very good (pretty bland, Americanized food) but it had a little dance club attached to it so we stayed there and danced for awhile. A pretty good band was playing and there were a lot of other SASers there.
Somehow, my friend Josh went off by himself to make a phone call and got lost. He was wandering around the streets of Penang at probably 10 p.m. or so. He stopped at a pay phone for a moment to try to find a number for a cab company, and someone came up behind him and held him up at knife-point. Josh gave him 50 Ringitts (about $17 USD) and the guy left. He finally found a hotel and managed to call some of his friends who picked him up in a cab and took him back to Hotel Hong Ping. He was lucky not to have been hurt or have had anything very valuable taken, but it shook him (and the rest of us) up pretty badly.
After this ordeal we decided to relax in the hotel and went to bed fairly early since we all had to be up at about 5 in the morning. For some reason I couldn’t sleep and spent all night reading in the hallway.
The next morning, bright and early, we went to the airport and flew to KL. We took the train into central KL, which was really cool because we could see the skyline as we got closer. In town, we took a monorail to our hostel. The hostel was pretty cool, all things considered – free internet and really cheap calling cards. I paid 20 Ringitts (about $6 USD) for a calling card and I had over 100 minutes to make calls to the States with. I didn’t even use them all but unfortunately the card doesn’t work anywhere except Malaysia. The rooms looked a little like jail cells but at the end of each day I was so tired, it didn’t matter.
So, after we were settled, we went out and decided to get massages because there were signs all over the place advertising hour-long massages for 35 Ringitts (about $12 USD). This was when I realized that the Asian concept of “massage” is a little different from the US one. I won’t go into details but I felt a little violated – and I’m a girl. My two guy friends had a much more awkward encounter.
Anyway, we headed off to the world-famous Petronas Towers after that (feeling a little traumatized, and very oily) and met up with our friends who had taken the train. We couldn’t go up the towers because you had to get there really early in the morning to get tickets (we’re taking 7 a.m.), and even then you could only go to the bridge that connects the towers (built after 9/11 in case of an emergency), which is about halfway up.
The entire platform is a gigantic shopping mall with all of the posh stores – Louis Vuitton, Versace, Ferragamo, etc. Obviously not within our price range but it was fun to meander anyway.
That night we hopped around bars. The nightlife wasn’t very exciting but we had a good time all hanging out together. We met some really cool Germans at the hostel, too.
The next morning we woke up early and spent the day walking around. We went to a radio history museum, which was a little cheesy but fun to walk through. We also climbed the Merona Tower, which is the one that looks like a space needle. We were much higher than we would have been in the Petronus Towers, and we had a fantastic view of the entire city. We stayed up there for about 2 hours napping on the benches, waiting for the sunset (which was sadly disappointed), and then we took the metro back to the hostel. By the way, KL’s public transportation system is really nice.
That night we stayed up because we planned to leave the hostel at 4 a.m. anyway, so I made a few phone calls on my mega-cheap phone card, and watched old Disney movies. The flight back was really pretty – we saw the sunrise, and mountain peaks were poking through the clouds, so we got a few pictures from the window of the airplane.
The next day we went to a few temples and a few shops around Penang, but we had to be back on the ship by 7 p.m. I wish I could divulge more details about the “feeling” of each place we visit because I feel like telling you what I do in each port isn’t enough. So much of the experience comes from the vibe of the city and the attitudes of the people. It’s hard to explain.
Anyway, I know I’ve been slacking on my blog entries – after Malaysia we hopped to Vietnam, Hong Kong, Beijing, and Shanghai within a week. It’s been pretty exhausting. I’m going to try to update them as soon as I can. I’ve been keeping bulleted notes with all the important stuff on them so I won’t forget anything.
I miss you all. I’m a little homesick, actually, and I’m looking forward to coming home.
Lots of love,
E